Hwaseong Fortress
The Tresure of Korean Fortresses Hwaseong Fortress is a Korean masterpiece that boasts both the grandeur of the fortresses of the East, and the beauty and practicality of the fortresses of the West. The most scientifically designed fortress in Korea, the Hwaseong Fortress was built with a number of creative and original attack and defense functions.
Hwaseong Fortress was built over several years
from 1794 to 1796. Though the fortress has a relatively short history of only
about 220 years, it was still registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in
1997. Over the course of the Japanese Colonial Era (1910-1945) and the Korean
War (1950- 1953), the fortress sustained extensive damage and was restored to
its original form through construction efforts that ran from 1975 to 1979.
Considering this recent reconstruction, many question why UNESCO considered
Suwon Hwaseong Fortress worthy of its title as an important World Heritage.
Recommended Course
Paldalmun → Seonam Gaknu → Seojangdae → Hwaseomun Gate →
Janganmun → Dongjangdae → Dongbuk Gaknu (Banghwasuryujeong) → Janganmun →
Hwaseong Haenggung (approx. 2hrs)
* Hwaseong Haenggung → Seojangdae → Hwaseomun → Janganmun → Buksumun (Hwahongmun) → Dongbuk Gaknu (Banghwasuryujeong) → Changnyongmun → Bongdon (approx. 3hrs)
* Seojangdae → Hwaseomun → Seobuk Gongsimdon → Janganmun → Buksumun (Hwahongmun) → Dongbuk Gaknu (Banghwasuryujeong) → Dongjangdae → Dongbuk Gongsimdon → Changnyongmun → Bongdon → Paldalmun → Hwaseong Haenggung (approx. 7hrs)
The best way to explore Hwaseong Fortress is to follow the fortress wall the entire way around. However, since the fortress measures more than 5km in circumference, you will need a significant amount of time. If you have the time, use the all-day course above for the best tour. For a quicker look at some main highlights, choose either the 2-hour or 3-hour course.
* Hwaseong Haenggung → Seojangdae → Hwaseomun → Janganmun → Buksumun (Hwahongmun) → Dongbuk Gaknu (Banghwasuryujeong) → Changnyongmun → Bongdon (approx. 3hrs)
* Seojangdae → Hwaseomun → Seobuk Gongsimdon → Janganmun → Buksumun (Hwahongmun) → Dongbuk Gaknu (Banghwasuryujeong) → Dongjangdae → Dongbuk Gongsimdon → Changnyongmun → Bongdon → Paldalmun → Hwaseong Haenggung (approx. 7hrs)
The best way to explore Hwaseong Fortress is to follow the fortress wall the entire way around. However, since the fortress measures more than 5km in circumference, you will need a significant amount of time. If you have the time, use the all-day course above for the best tour. For a quicker look at some main highlights, choose either the 2-hour or 3-hour course.
When the World Heritage Evaluation Committee
first visited Korea and saw the newly reconstructed Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, it
was reluctant to register the fortress as a World Heritage. This was because
they thought that the restored building would be too different from the
fortress’s original form. However, after seeing the Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe,
they had a change of heart.
The ‘Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe’ is a historical text with detailed records of the construction, systems, and rituals of the fortress. The text contains all sorts of official documents detailing everything there is to know about Hwaseong Fortress, including: construction designs and processes, the shapes of buildings constructed, building standards and special characteristics, the origin and use of building materials, material manufacturing processes and mobilization, personal details of laborers, budget details, pay calculations, and more.
After looking at this priceless text, the committee realized that Korea had not rebuilt the fortress at random, but had thoroughly researched and reconstructed the fortress in its original form. The evaluation committee praised the fortress saying, "Among the fortresses of both the East and West, the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress possesses highly developed scientific characteristics and stands as a prime example of architecture from the beginning of the modern era.” The International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) evaluated the fortress saying, “Suwon Hwaseong Fortress is a representative military structure of the 18th century that combines the characteristics of European and Far East Asian fortresses, giving it a unique historical importance.”
The ‘Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe’ is a historical text with detailed records of the construction, systems, and rituals of the fortress. The text contains all sorts of official documents detailing everything there is to know about Hwaseong Fortress, including: construction designs and processes, the shapes of buildings constructed, building standards and special characteristics, the origin and use of building materials, material manufacturing processes and mobilization, personal details of laborers, budget details, pay calculations, and more.
After looking at this priceless text, the committee realized that Korea had not rebuilt the fortress at random, but had thoroughly researched and reconstructed the fortress in its original form. The evaluation committee praised the fortress saying, "Among the fortresses of both the East and West, the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress possesses highly developed scientific characteristics and stands as a prime example of architecture from the beginning of the modern era.” The International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) evaluated the fortress saying, “Suwon Hwaseong Fortress is a representative military structure of the 18th century that combines the characteristics of European and Far East Asian fortresses, giving it a unique historical importance.”
A City Born from King Jeongjo’s Filial Piety
Suwon City, in which Hwaseong Fortress is located, is known as
the ‘City of Filial Piety'. This is because the city was first established when
King Jeongjo (1752-1800, the 22nd king of Joseon) moved the grave of his father
Sado Seja (Crown Prince Sado, 1735-1762) to the area. Thirteen years after
Jeongjo ascended to the throne (1789), he began making plans to move the grave
in order to grant his father, who was sentenced to death during political power
struggles, eternal peace. Jeongjo scoured the entire country looking for the
perfect spot for the grave and decided upon Suwon’s Yungrung Tomb, paving the
way for a great history to come. Since the story of Suwon began with Jeongjo’s
deep loyalty to his father, ‘hyo’ (filial piety) is an important keyword when it
comes to understanding the city.
At the same time that the tomb of Sado Seja was moved from Yangju Baebongsan Mountain (now Hwigyeong-dong, Seoul) to Gyeonggi-do Hwasan (now Gyeonggi-do, Hwaseong-si), Suwon was moved to its current location at the foot of Paldalsan Mountain. Because of this, the king’s subjects moved to the area and Hwaseong was constructed. King Jeongjo also built Haenggung Palace for himself so that he would have a place to stay when he came to pay his respects at his father’s grave. King Jeongjo also established Yongjusa Temple to stand guard over the royal tomb and even made plans for the transfer of the capital.
The latter part of the 18th century, when King Jeongjo ascended to the throne, was a time marked by intense power struggles between different political factions. The fundamental principles of Bungdang Politics, in which political factions sought to keep each other in check, collapsed and one political faction after another tried to seize all the power.
Sado Seja was the second son of King Yeongjo (1694-1776), the 21st king of the Joseon Dynasty. Even though the crown was traditionally given to the firstborn son, Sado Seja became the crown prince after his older brother died. When he was 10 years old, Sado Seja was married to Queen Hyegyeonggung Hongssi (1735-1815). Since he was an extremely bright child from his youth, Sado Seja was much loved by his father and placed in charge of state affairs instead of the king. He soon found himself embroiled in political turmoil, which was the start of the tragedy that ultimately led to his death.
Those who were opposed to Sado Seja becoming king were determined to drag him down from his position of authority. Exaggerating any and all of Sado Seja’s flaws and dreaming up false information, they reported these things to King Yeongjo. By riling up the people, they turned the wrath of the king upon Sado Seja. Sado Seja was eventually demoted to the rank of commoner and forced inside a wooden rice chest, where he died of starvation 8 days later. At the time of his death, Sado (stripped of the title of ‘Seja’, meaning ‘Crown Prince’) was only 27 years old. Sado was awarded the posthumous title of 'Jangheon' after his son King Jeongjo was coronated and was later restored to the rank of ‘Jangjo’ in 1899.
At the same time that the tomb of Sado Seja was moved from Yangju Baebongsan Mountain (now Hwigyeong-dong, Seoul) to Gyeonggi-do Hwasan (now Gyeonggi-do, Hwaseong-si), Suwon was moved to its current location at the foot of Paldalsan Mountain. Because of this, the king’s subjects moved to the area and Hwaseong was constructed. King Jeongjo also built Haenggung Palace for himself so that he would have a place to stay when he came to pay his respects at his father’s grave. King Jeongjo also established Yongjusa Temple to stand guard over the royal tomb and even made plans for the transfer of the capital.
The latter part of the 18th century, when King Jeongjo ascended to the throne, was a time marked by intense power struggles between different political factions. The fundamental principles of Bungdang Politics, in which political factions sought to keep each other in check, collapsed and one political faction after another tried to seize all the power.
Sado Seja was the second son of King Yeongjo (1694-1776), the 21st king of the Joseon Dynasty. Even though the crown was traditionally given to the firstborn son, Sado Seja became the crown prince after his older brother died. When he was 10 years old, Sado Seja was married to Queen Hyegyeonggung Hongssi (1735-1815). Since he was an extremely bright child from his youth, Sado Seja was much loved by his father and placed in charge of state affairs instead of the king. He soon found himself embroiled in political turmoil, which was the start of the tragedy that ultimately led to his death.
Those who were opposed to Sado Seja becoming king were determined to drag him down from his position of authority. Exaggerating any and all of Sado Seja’s flaws and dreaming up false information, they reported these things to King Yeongjo. By riling up the people, they turned the wrath of the king upon Sado Seja. Sado Seja was eventually demoted to the rank of commoner and forced inside a wooden rice chest, where he died of starvation 8 days later. At the time of his death, Sado (stripped of the title of ‘Seja’, meaning ‘Crown Prince’) was only 27 years old. Sado was awarded the posthumous title of 'Jangheon' after his son King Jeongjo was coronated and was later restored to the rank of ‘Jangjo’ in 1899.
King Jeongjo, who had witnessed the tragic
death of his father as a result of struggles between factions, made a clean
sweep of the old government after succeeding to the throne and set about
building a new government based on his own convictions. In order to eliminate
the negative effects of political factionalism, King Jeongjo implemented
'Tangpyeongchaek', a political policy for choosing government officials from
among each faction. In the 13 years following his ascension to the throne,
Jeongjo sought primarily to establish some degree of royal sovereignty and
social stability. As a result, it wasn't until 1789 that he decided to move the
grave of his father from Baebongsan Mountain in Yangju to Suwon and construct a
new city at the foothills of Paldalsan Mountain.
When the king announced his plans for the construction of the new city of Suwon, there arose opposition from among the people. This was because they thought that King Jeonjo was creating the new city to strengthen the power of the throne as opposed to actualizing political ideologies. However, the people failed to understand Jeongjo’s intent. The purpose of the new city was not to increase Jeongjo’s prestige and authority, but rather to create a city ruled by the political ideologies of Confucianism.
Joseon was a nation deeply rooted in Confucian tradition. Instead of ruling with military might, the king sought to establish a benevolent government in which the people would naturally follow the moral example of the king and government. Even though the people were split into factions and raised disputes, the underlying reason for this was to actualize these ideals. Important Confucian virtues included loyalty to one’s country and filial piety, or honor and loyalty to one's parents. Since King Jeongjo stood for the moral obligation of filial piety by moving his father’s grave to a good spot, it was difficult for any of the people to stand up to the king, no matter how strongly they were opposed.
When the king announced his plans for the construction of the new city of Suwon, there arose opposition from among the people. This was because they thought that King Jeonjo was creating the new city to strengthen the power of the throne as opposed to actualizing political ideologies. However, the people failed to understand Jeongjo’s intent. The purpose of the new city was not to increase Jeongjo’s prestige and authority, but rather to create a city ruled by the political ideologies of Confucianism.
Joseon was a nation deeply rooted in Confucian tradition. Instead of ruling with military might, the king sought to establish a benevolent government in which the people would naturally follow the moral example of the king and government. Even though the people were split into factions and raised disputes, the underlying reason for this was to actualize these ideals. Important Confucian virtues included loyalty to one’s country and filial piety, or honor and loyalty to one's parents. Since King Jeongjo stood for the moral obligation of filial piety by moving his father’s grave to a good spot, it was difficult for any of the people to stand up to the king, no matter how strongly they were opposed.
Under the national ideology of Confucianism,
filial piety was seen as more important than anything else. It was even
considered to come before loyalty to one's own country.
When King Jeongjo moved the tomb of Sado Seja, the inhabitants and district offices that had been at the foothills of Hwasan (now Hwaseong) were collectively moved to the foot of Paldalsan Mountain. To ensure the security of the city, the king’s royal bodyguards were sent to the area. Top soldiers from surrounding military encampments were also picked and placed in the area, strengthening the military power of the city. In order to increase its safety and reputation, the new city was elevated in status from Suwonbu (special administrative district in Suwon with the purpose of defending the capital of Joseon) to Yusubu (government offices installed in an old seat of government or place of military importance) and construction of the fortress commenced. Through this, Suwon grew economically and militarily, backed by the strength of the king.
When King Jeongjo moved the tomb of Sado Seja, the inhabitants and district offices that had been at the foothills of Hwasan (now Hwaseong) were collectively moved to the foot of Paldalsan Mountain. To ensure the security of the city, the king’s royal bodyguards were sent to the area. Top soldiers from surrounding military encampments were also picked and placed in the area, strengthening the military power of the city. In order to increase its safety and reputation, the new city was elevated in status from Suwonbu (special administrative district in Suwon with the purpose of defending the capital of Joseon) to Yusubu (government offices installed in an old seat of government or place of military importance) and construction of the fortress commenced. Through this, Suwon grew economically and militarily, backed by the strength of the king.
A Fortress Created with the Top Modern and Scientific Innovations of Its Time
The construction of the fortress surrounding Hwaseong was
entrusted to Jeong Yak-yong, a Silhak scholar (a scholar of the Realist School
of Confucianism). Using a foundation of traditional Korean fortress construction
techniques, Jeong Yak-yong adopted the strong points of Chinese fortresses and
the science of those in the West to develop a new fortress
concept.
Korean fortresses are normally divided into 'eupseong' (a city fortress), which is used as a residence in times of peace, and ‘sanseong’ (a mountain fortress), which is used as a shelter in times of war. However, Hwaseong Fortress does not have a separate sanseong, but was built instead as an eupseong fortified with defense mechanisms.
If you take a look at the fortress structure, you will notice that the fortress has four gates—Changnyongmun to the east, Hwaseomun to the west, Paldalmun to the south, and Janganmun to the north—each of which is installed with an Ongseong (semi-circular protective wall). To the right and left of Paldalmun, the main gate of the fortress, are 4 sentry posts or patrol areas known as ‘jeokdae’. Along the fortress wall are 3 'gongsimdon' (2-story brick watchtowers) outfitted with drilled gun holes to allow soldiers to attack their enemies. Every 100m or so, you will see 'chiseong' (bastions) jutting out from the palace walls to allow soldiers to attack enemies approaching the castle. There are also 5 'poru' (cannon posts) with 'nugak' (a Korean-style building) on top and 4 'gaknu' (angled towers) where soldiers could stay in times of emergency. There are also 4 ‘ammun’ (secret entrances) that allowed for people and supplies to come in and out of the fortress relatively undetected. At the foot of Paldalsan Mountain you will see Haenggung Palace, the temporary palace where the king would stay when he visited Hyeonnyungwon (now known as Yungneung Tomb).
Korean fortresses are normally divided into 'eupseong' (a city fortress), which is used as a residence in times of peace, and ‘sanseong’ (a mountain fortress), which is used as a shelter in times of war. However, Hwaseong Fortress does not have a separate sanseong, but was built instead as an eupseong fortified with defense mechanisms.
If you take a look at the fortress structure, you will notice that the fortress has four gates—Changnyongmun to the east, Hwaseomun to the west, Paldalmun to the south, and Janganmun to the north—each of which is installed with an Ongseong (semi-circular protective wall). To the right and left of Paldalmun, the main gate of the fortress, are 4 sentry posts or patrol areas known as ‘jeokdae’. Along the fortress wall are 3 'gongsimdon' (2-story brick watchtowers) outfitted with drilled gun holes to allow soldiers to attack their enemies. Every 100m or so, you will see 'chiseong' (bastions) jutting out from the palace walls to allow soldiers to attack enemies approaching the castle. There are also 5 'poru' (cannon posts) with 'nugak' (a Korean-style building) on top and 4 'gaknu' (angled towers) where soldiers could stay in times of emergency. There are also 4 ‘ammun’ (secret entrances) that allowed for people and supplies to come in and out of the fortress relatively undetected. At the foot of Paldalsan Mountain you will see Haenggung Palace, the temporary palace where the king would stay when he visited Hyeonnyungwon (now known as Yungneung Tomb).
Must See Suwon Hwaseong
Museum
The Suwon Hwaseong Museum is highly recommended for those who
are looking for the best and easiest way to understand more about Hwaseong
Fortress. Through the Hwaseong Fortress Construction Exhibition Hall (covering
fortress construction and city development) and the Hwaseong Cultural Exhibition
(covering the fortress construction workers, the 8-day visit of King Jeongjo,
and the Jangyongyeong Guards Ceremony), you will find out almost everything
there is to know about Hwaseong Fortress. At the Hwaseong Fortress Construction
Exhibition, you will see the golden suit of armor worn by King Jeongjo on visits
to Hwaseong; the Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe, with records on everything related to
the construction of Hwaseong Fortress; and the secret letter King Jeongjo sent
to Hwaseong Yusu (the equivalent of today’s mayor) Jo Sim-tae (1740-1799). Also
on display are written directives from Sado Seja appointing vassal and civil
servant Jo Don (1716-1790) as Gyeonggi 'Gwanchalsa' (equivalent of current-day
Gyeonggi Provincial Governor) and 'Byeongmasugunjeoldosa' (top commanding navy
and military officer).
21 Changnyongdae-ro, Paldal-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do
031-228-4205
09:00-18:00 *Closed first Monday of every month
Adults 2,000 won Youths 1,000 won Children Free of Charge
www.hsmuseum.suwon.ne.kr (EN/JP/CH)
Construction of Hwaseong Fortress, based on
the design by Jeong Yak-yong, began in February 1794 and was completed in
September 1796. The fortress has a circumference of 5.52km and a total of 40
buildings, which makes the relatively short construction time (30 months) even
more astonishing. When you consider the technologies available at the time, the
construction of the fortress seems miraculous in many ways. The reason this type
of construction was even possible was because of the genius-like labors of
scholar Jeong Yakyong, who standardized raw materials for increased efficiency
and developed new scientific equipment. Of course, King Jeongjo, the most
reformed monarch of the Joseon Dynasty, also played a large part by trusting and
backing the efforts of those involved in the construction of the
fortress.
More specifically, Jeong Yak-yong invented scientific machinery and tools such as the 'Nokro' (a narrow type of crane or pulley to lift rocks) and Geojunggi (another type of crane) for the construction of Hwaseong Fortress. The most celebrated of these inventions is the 'Geojunggi', which used the principle of pulleys to lift heavy objects. Charged by King Jeongjo with making a machine to lift heavy items and prevent workers from getting injured, Jeong Yak-yong studied the Chinese ‘Gigidoseol’ (Illustrated description of marvelous machines) and noticed that the more pulleys were used, the less force was needed to move an object. A picture of an assembled Geojunggi as well as a picture of each of its disassembled parts is printed in the ‘Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe’ historical text. There are 4 pulleys on the top and bottom rods of the Geojunggi, which are connected to each other with rope. On the horizontal rod at the very top hang 2 pulleys. On both sides is a rope connected to the reels of these pulleys. Rocks were moved by winding or unwinding the rope. One of these machines was used in the construction of Hwaseong Fortress and was directly produced by the royal household before being sent to the construction site.
More specifically, Jeong Yak-yong invented scientific machinery and tools such as the 'Nokro' (a narrow type of crane or pulley to lift rocks) and Geojunggi (another type of crane) for the construction of Hwaseong Fortress. The most celebrated of these inventions is the 'Geojunggi', which used the principle of pulleys to lift heavy objects. Charged by King Jeongjo with making a machine to lift heavy items and prevent workers from getting injured, Jeong Yak-yong studied the Chinese ‘Gigidoseol’ (Illustrated description of marvelous machines) and noticed that the more pulleys were used, the less force was needed to move an object. A picture of an assembled Geojunggi as well as a picture of each of its disassembled parts is printed in the ‘Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe’ historical text. There are 4 pulleys on the top and bottom rods of the Geojunggi, which are connected to each other with rope. On the horizontal rod at the very top hang 2 pulleys. On both sides is a rope connected to the reels of these pulleys. Rocks were moved by winding or unwinding the rope. One of these machines was used in the construction of Hwaseong Fortress and was directly produced by the royal household before being sent to the construction site.
Did you know? The Hwaseong
Train
The most convenient and effective way to see Hwaseong Fortress
in a short amount of time is to take a ride on the Hwaseong Train. The train
takes you on a 3.2-kilometer, 30-minute course to some of the key areas of
Hwaseong Fortress, namely: Paldalsan Mountain, Hwaseomun Gate, Janganmun Gate,
Hwahongmun Gate, and Dongjangdae. Riders can embark and disembark at the
Paldalsan Ticket Office (031-228-4683) and the Dongjangdae Ticket Office
(031-228-4686).
Hwaseong Fortress was built to implement
modern equipment while reducing time and expenses, but still represented a huge
investment of human resources and raw materials. To get the necessary funding,
10 years’ worth of Jeongbeonjeon money was used in advance. This was money that
was to be budgeted to the King, Geumwiyong (military administration in charge of
defending Seoul), and the Eoyoungcheong (a type of military unit). Secondary
funding for the fortress came from Jeolla-do, Gyeongsang-do, and Pyeongan-do
(now in North Korea) provinces.
According to the 'Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe', the fortress was constructed using 187,600 stones and 695,000 bricks. Food for the workers amounted to 6,200 seoks (7,037 barrels) of rice, 4,550 seoks (5,164 barrels) of beans, and 1050 seoks (1,191 barrels) of other grains. The project also took 26,200 ju (shares) of lumber, 559,000 geun (335,400kg) of metal, 2,900 geun (1740kg) of 'cheolyeop' (iron ornament for doors), 69,000 seoks (78,315 barrels) of charcoal, 53,000 tiles, and 86,000 seoks (97,610 barrels) of limestone. Among the 11,820 skilled laborers mobilized for the project were 642 masons, 335 carpenters, and 295 plaster workers. Everyone who participated in the construction was listed by name and separated into the categories of worker or overseer.
Today, Suwon is famous for its cattle and galbi (grilled marinated beef shortribs). This is because, up until 1940, Suwon was home to the nation’s largest cattle market. The thing that led to the development of this market was the construction of Hwaseong Fortress. During the Joseon Dynasty, cattle were used to plow fields and carry heavy loads. Since cattle were so valuable to farmers, butchering them was strictly prohibited. However, in order for construction workers of the enormous Suwon Hwaseong Fortress to keep up their strength, cattle were allowed to be slaughtered in large numbers, resulting in the development of a cattle market.
According to the 'Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe', the fortress was constructed using 187,600 stones and 695,000 bricks. Food for the workers amounted to 6,200 seoks (7,037 barrels) of rice, 4,550 seoks (5,164 barrels) of beans, and 1050 seoks (1,191 barrels) of other grains. The project also took 26,200 ju (shares) of lumber, 559,000 geun (335,400kg) of metal, 2,900 geun (1740kg) of 'cheolyeop' (iron ornament for doors), 69,000 seoks (78,315 barrels) of charcoal, 53,000 tiles, and 86,000 seoks (97,610 barrels) of limestone. Among the 11,820 skilled laborers mobilized for the project were 642 masons, 335 carpenters, and 295 plaster workers. Everyone who participated in the construction was listed by name and separated into the categories of worker or overseer.
Today, Suwon is famous for its cattle and galbi (grilled marinated beef shortribs). This is because, up until 1940, Suwon was home to the nation’s largest cattle market. The thing that led to the development of this market was the construction of Hwaseong Fortress. During the Joseon Dynasty, cattle were used to plow fields and carry heavy loads. Since cattle were so valuable to farmers, butchering them was strictly prohibited. However, in order for construction workers of the enormous Suwon Hwaseong Fortress to keep up their strength, cattle were allowed to be slaughtered in large numbers, resulting in the development of a cattle market.
Seojangdae to Hwaseomun Gate
At the top of Paldasan Mountain is Seojangdae, which was a place
from which soldiers could not only keep tabs on what was happening directly
inside and outside the fortress, but also on movements for a distance of 100 ri
(approx. 40km) in the area surrounding the mountain. It was also a place where
soldiers could engage in battle or conduct military training. When King Jeongjo
came to pay his respects at the royal tomb of his father, he also came here to
watch the military training exercises and fireworks. To the back of Seojangdae
is Seonodae, where trained crossbowmen stayed.
If you walk north along the fortress from Seojangdae, you will come upon Seoporu. A ‘poru’ is a sentry post built on top of a ‘chiseong’ (bastion). It is a type of facility that was used to fire cannons at enemies approaching the fortress wall.
To the right and left of Seoporu are Seoilchi (Western turret I) and Seoichi (Western turret II). These turrets or bastions are structures that jut out from the fortress wall and are used to watch out for enemies and prevent them from trying to climb over the wall. To the side of Seoilchi, is Seobuk Gangnu. Seobuk Gangnu (tower of the northwest) is one of the 4 ‘gangnu' (fortress guard tower built along the wall). Allowing soldiers to watch out for enemy invasions from a high vantage point, these towers also served as a place of rest for soldiers and a military command post in times of state emergency. The structure was installed with 'ondol' (a type of Korean floor heating) as a special consideration for soldiers on night duty to allow them to rest more comfortably. One of the charms of Seobuk Gaknu is the view out towards Hwaseomun. The view stretches all the way to Janganmun, highlighting the harmony of the fortress and the modern buildings just past its borders.
Hwaseomun is the west gate of Hwaseong Fortress. On top of the fortress wall is a one-story ‘munru’ (a pavilion-like structure built on top of a fortress gate). If you go inside and look out, the fortress wall seems to block the space, making it feel rather cramped. The reason the gatehouse is built very close to the fortress wall is not only to prevent enemy attack, but also to shield the gatehouse from the cold winter winds and hot summer sun. The semicircular stone structure that wraps around in front of the fortress gate is called an ‘ongseong'. To one side of Hwaseomun is Seobuk Gongsimdon, a structure that allowed soldiers to take shots at their enemies from 3 different sides.
If you take a look at Seobuk Gongsimdon and Hwaseomun together, you will be struck by the architectural beauty of Hwaseong Fortress, bringing to mind Jeongjo’s philosophy of ‘Beauty brings fear to the enemy’. The gongsimdon at Hwaseong Fortress was the first gongsimdon to be built in the nation. A stronghold from which to observe the movements of enemy troops and defend the fortress, the gongsimdon measures 13m high and has 3 different stories in its interior. The first floor is the fortress itself while the second and third floors were constructed separately with a ladder between them to allow soldiers to move from floor to floor. At the very top are dragonhead sculptures from which arrows were shot.
Another defense mechanism is ‘hyeonan’, grooves that were drilled lengthwise from the top of the fortress to the bottom. Boiling water or oil was poured down these grooves to attack enemies trying to creep up the sides of the fortress wall. Among all the fortresses of Korea, Hwaseong Fortress is the only one to have been built with hyeonan.
If you walk north along the fortress from Seojangdae, you will come upon Seoporu. A ‘poru’ is a sentry post built on top of a ‘chiseong’ (bastion). It is a type of facility that was used to fire cannons at enemies approaching the fortress wall.
To the right and left of Seoporu are Seoilchi (Western turret I) and Seoichi (Western turret II). These turrets or bastions are structures that jut out from the fortress wall and are used to watch out for enemies and prevent them from trying to climb over the wall. To the side of Seoilchi, is Seobuk Gangnu. Seobuk Gangnu (tower of the northwest) is one of the 4 ‘gangnu' (fortress guard tower built along the wall). Allowing soldiers to watch out for enemy invasions from a high vantage point, these towers also served as a place of rest for soldiers and a military command post in times of state emergency. The structure was installed with 'ondol' (a type of Korean floor heating) as a special consideration for soldiers on night duty to allow them to rest more comfortably. One of the charms of Seobuk Gaknu is the view out towards Hwaseomun. The view stretches all the way to Janganmun, highlighting the harmony of the fortress and the modern buildings just past its borders.
Hwaseomun is the west gate of Hwaseong Fortress. On top of the fortress wall is a one-story ‘munru’ (a pavilion-like structure built on top of a fortress gate). If you go inside and look out, the fortress wall seems to block the space, making it feel rather cramped. The reason the gatehouse is built very close to the fortress wall is not only to prevent enemy attack, but also to shield the gatehouse from the cold winter winds and hot summer sun. The semicircular stone structure that wraps around in front of the fortress gate is called an ‘ongseong'. To one side of Hwaseomun is Seobuk Gongsimdon, a structure that allowed soldiers to take shots at their enemies from 3 different sides.
If you take a look at Seobuk Gongsimdon and Hwaseomun together, you will be struck by the architectural beauty of Hwaseong Fortress, bringing to mind Jeongjo’s philosophy of ‘Beauty brings fear to the enemy’. The gongsimdon at Hwaseong Fortress was the first gongsimdon to be built in the nation. A stronghold from which to observe the movements of enemy troops and defend the fortress, the gongsimdon measures 13m high and has 3 different stories in its interior. The first floor is the fortress itself while the second and third floors were constructed separately with a ladder between them to allow soldiers to move from floor to floor. At the very top are dragonhead sculptures from which arrows were shot.
Another defense mechanism is ‘hyeonan’, grooves that were drilled lengthwise from the top of the fortress to the bottom. Boiling water or oil was poured down these grooves to attack enemies trying to creep up the sides of the fortress wall. Among all the fortresses of Korea, Hwaseong Fortress is the only one to have been built with hyeonan.
Janganmun Gate to Paldalmun Gate
Janganmun is the north and main gate of Hwaseong Fortress. King
Jeongjo named the gate after the flourishing city of Chang’an of the Chinese
Tang Dynasty in hopes that Suwon would become just as prosperous. In Korea, the
south gate is usually the main gate of a palace or fortress, so why is it that
the main gate of Hwaseong Fortress is the north gate? The reason for this
anomaly is that the north gate of Hwaseong Fortress was the first gate that King
Jeongjo passed through as he came to the city from Seoul.
The ‘munru’ (gate tower) of Janganmun is 13.5m in height and 9m in width, making it even larger than Seoul’s Sungnyemun Gate (official name of Namdaemun Gate, National Treasure No. 1). The fortress gate is extremely similar to Sungnyemun in appearance. The gate is outfitted with defensive structures such as ongseong (semi-circular protective wall) to the front and jeokdae observation structures on each side. Ongseong and jeokdae served as secondary and tertiary defense mechanisms for protecting the gate, making the fortress virtually impenetrable from attack.
The ‘munru’ (gate tower) of Janganmun is 13.5m in height and 9m in width, making it even larger than Seoul’s Sungnyemun Gate (official name of Namdaemun Gate, National Treasure No. 1). The fortress gate is extremely similar to Sungnyemun in appearance. The gate is outfitted with defensive structures such as ongseong (semi-circular protective wall) to the front and jeokdae observation structures on each side. Ongseong and jeokdae served as secondary and tertiary defense mechanisms for protecting the gate, making the fortress virtually impenetrable from attack.
Adjacent to Janganmun to the north is the
Hwahongmun floodgate. Hwahongmun not only acts as a safeguard to prevent the
overflow of the Suwon Stream, which runs north to south, but also serves a
defensive function. Hwahongmun is made of 7 arch-shaped piers and topped with a
numaru-style gatehouse. One of the most scenic spots of Hwaseong Fortress,
Hwahongmun is famous for its nightscape along with
Banghwasuryujeong.
Next to Hwahongmun is Dongbuk Gangnu (meaning ‘tower of the northeast’ and nicknamed 'Banghwasuryujeong'), an important place that connects the eastern and northern sides of the fortress. This facility was used as an observation post and for conducting military operations in times of state emergency. On top of the hill is a pavilion; at the bottom of the pavilion is a ‘yongyeon’ (a pond in which a dragon is said to live). Though meant for wartime use, the aesthetics of the structure as a pavilion were also taken into consideration and constructed using stone, timber, and bricks.
On the lower part of the pavilion, the pattern of the foundation stones is of wooden columns with bricks in between. The cross-shaped pattern of the horizontal and vertical wood adds to the overall beauty of the pavilion. When King Jeongjo took a look around the fortress construction site in 1796, he discovered this very spot. With Geobuk (turtle) Rock to the right of Paldalsan Mountain, it was deemed an ideal spot, providing an open view from all sides. King Jeongjo decreed that the place would be known as 'Banghwasuryujeong'. After this decree, the pavilion was completed in just 45 days. A place with a stunning view where the ancients once sat to appreciate the moon reflecting off the pond, this romantic spot has been selected as one of the ‘Eight Scenicwon.’
Next to Hwahongmun is Dongbuk Gangnu (meaning ‘tower of the northeast’ and nicknamed 'Banghwasuryujeong'), an important place that connects the eastern and northern sides of the fortress. This facility was used as an observation post and for conducting military operations in times of state emergency. On top of the hill is a pavilion; at the bottom of the pavilion is a ‘yongyeon’ (a pond in which a dragon is said to live). Though meant for wartime use, the aesthetics of the structure as a pavilion were also taken into consideration and constructed using stone, timber, and bricks.
On the lower part of the pavilion, the pattern of the foundation stones is of wooden columns with bricks in between. The cross-shaped pattern of the horizontal and vertical wood adds to the overall beauty of the pavilion. When King Jeongjo took a look around the fortress construction site in 1796, he discovered this very spot. With Geobuk (turtle) Rock to the right of Paldalsan Mountain, it was deemed an ideal spot, providing an open view from all sides. King Jeongjo decreed that the place would be known as 'Banghwasuryujeong'. After this decree, the pavilion was completed in just 45 days. A place with a stunning view where the ancients once sat to appreciate the moon reflecting off the pond, this romantic spot has been selected as one of the ‘Eight Scenicwon.’
If you continue past Hwahongmun, you will come
across Dongbuk Poru, from which cannons were fired, followed by Dongjangdae,
where soldiers would practice archery and martial arts. Since Dongjangdae was
used for martial arts training, it was also known as ‘Yeonmudae’ (‘yeonmu’
meaning ‘military exercise’). Leading up to Dongjangdae is a ramp made out of
dirt that allowed for the king to ride his horse right up to the
pavilion.
After passing Dongjangdae, you will soon come across Changnyongmun, the east gate of Hwaseong Fortress. Changnyongmun is an arched gate topped with a one-story gatehouse that is protected by an ongseong. The double arches are made to different scales on the inside and outside, measuring a height of 4.8m on the inside and 4.5m on the outside. On the left side of the gate outside the fortress is a detailed list of the names of those who participated in the construction of the palace, from higher-ranking overseers to low-ranking masons. This list served as an official registry of names to find who was responsible if a flaw was found in the fortress. To the north of Changnyongmun is DongbukNodae, which served a similar function to Seonodae, the crossbowmen residence.
South along the fortress from Changnyongmun, are ‘poru’ (cannon posts) and ‘chi’ (bastions) installed alternately along the wall. Take a close look at the fortress as you walk along and you will notice holes drilled inside the fortress wall. These holes were used to shoot arrows or other forms of artillery. Some holes allowed viewers to see far away while others were angled to show only the closer part of the wall below. The holes were constructed this way to make a distinction between enemies invading from near and far and eliminate any blind spots.
From the outside, the fortress looks as if it is strongly built with stacked stones, but from the inside looks as if it is built with a low wall. This is because the interior of the fortress wall is covered with dirt and mud. The fortress was designed this way so that even if it was attacked from the outside, the dirt on the inside would absorb the shock. Since a cannonball would get stuck in this softer dirt, the fortress would be less likely to fall.
One of the most notable fortress facilities is 'bongdon'. In the olden days when methods of communication were not as developed as they are today, the fastest way to communicate was by signal fire. This signal fire is called 'bonghwa' and the place where the signal fire was lit at Hwaseong Fortress is called bongdon. Interestingly enough, the place where signal fires are lit is usually referred to as 'bongsudae'. Most of the bongsudae in Korea are located on the mountaintops. During the day, the smoke of a signal fire was used to communicate; at night, fireworks.
The name bongdon is a combination of the words 'bongsudae' and 'dondae' (meaning 'high grounds'), which were both considered a part of fortress defenses. One signal fire was kept lit in times of peace, two were used to signify that the enemy has been spotted approaching, three signalled that they had arrived, four were used to announce the start of a fight, and five were lit to signal a full-blown state of emergency. Since it was important for the smoke to rise up immediately instead of dissipating, horse or wolf droppings were often placed on top of the fire.
The section between Dongnam Gaknu (tower of the southwest) and Paldalmun was destroyed in the Korean War (also known as the 6.25 War) and has yet to be restored. Paldalmun is the south gate of Hwaseong Fortress. The archshaped door made of stacked stones is large enough for the palanquin (sedan chair) of the king to enter and exit, and is topped by a double-roofed gatehouse. There are a variety of defense mechanisms for protecting the fortress gate such as a low wall surrounding the gatehouse, a semi-circular ongseong on the outside and jeokdae to the left and right.
After passing Dongjangdae, you will soon come across Changnyongmun, the east gate of Hwaseong Fortress. Changnyongmun is an arched gate topped with a one-story gatehouse that is protected by an ongseong. The double arches are made to different scales on the inside and outside, measuring a height of 4.8m on the inside and 4.5m on the outside. On the left side of the gate outside the fortress is a detailed list of the names of those who participated in the construction of the palace, from higher-ranking overseers to low-ranking masons. This list served as an official registry of names to find who was responsible if a flaw was found in the fortress. To the north of Changnyongmun is DongbukNodae, which served a similar function to Seonodae, the crossbowmen residence.
South along the fortress from Changnyongmun, are ‘poru’ (cannon posts) and ‘chi’ (bastions) installed alternately along the wall. Take a close look at the fortress as you walk along and you will notice holes drilled inside the fortress wall. These holes were used to shoot arrows or other forms of artillery. Some holes allowed viewers to see far away while others were angled to show only the closer part of the wall below. The holes were constructed this way to make a distinction between enemies invading from near and far and eliminate any blind spots.
From the outside, the fortress looks as if it is strongly built with stacked stones, but from the inside looks as if it is built with a low wall. This is because the interior of the fortress wall is covered with dirt and mud. The fortress was designed this way so that even if it was attacked from the outside, the dirt on the inside would absorb the shock. Since a cannonball would get stuck in this softer dirt, the fortress would be less likely to fall.
One of the most notable fortress facilities is 'bongdon'. In the olden days when methods of communication were not as developed as they are today, the fastest way to communicate was by signal fire. This signal fire is called 'bonghwa' and the place where the signal fire was lit at Hwaseong Fortress is called bongdon. Interestingly enough, the place where signal fires are lit is usually referred to as 'bongsudae'. Most of the bongsudae in Korea are located on the mountaintops. During the day, the smoke of a signal fire was used to communicate; at night, fireworks.
The name bongdon is a combination of the words 'bongsudae' and 'dondae' (meaning 'high grounds'), which were both considered a part of fortress defenses. One signal fire was kept lit in times of peace, two were used to signify that the enemy has been spotted approaching, three signalled that they had arrived, four were used to announce the start of a fight, and five were lit to signal a full-blown state of emergency. Since it was important for the smoke to rise up immediately instead of dissipating, horse or wolf droppings were often placed on top of the fire.
The section between Dongnam Gaknu (tower of the southwest) and Paldalmun was destroyed in the Korean War (also known as the 6.25 War) and has yet to be restored. Paldalmun is the south gate of Hwaseong Fortress. The archshaped door made of stacked stones is large enough for the palanquin (sedan chair) of the king to enter and exit, and is topped by a double-roofed gatehouse. There are a variety of defense mechanisms for protecting the fortress gate such as a low wall surrounding the gatehouse, a semi-circular ongseong on the outside and jeokdae to the left and right.
Hwaseong Haenggung – the Residence of the King
Haenggung Palace was the temporary residence of the king and was
used by King Jeongjo when he came to pay his respects at the royal tomb of his
father Sado Seja. However, the palace was also intended as a place to which the
king could retire with his mother and live out his later years after stepping
down from the throne. This is why Haenggung Palace was built to a larger scale
than any other haenggung (temporary palaces) of the Joseon Dynasty.
At the entrance of Haenggung Palace is a 'gwangjang' (plaza or square). Illustrations are drawn here and there on the floor of the plaza. One picture, called 'banchado', shows the procession of King Jeongjo bringing his mother to Suwon. There is also a picture of Queen Hyegyeonggung (mother of King Jeongjo) on her 60th birthday party.
This particular illustration, with its elaborate portrayal of every person in attendance, gives the viewer a real sense of how magnificent the feast was. At the same time, the picture serves as an important point of reference for research on royal court banquets. In addition to this illustration are pictures showing a party celebrating the completion of the construction of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, grain being given to the poor at Jeongjo’s mother’s 60th birthday party, and military training exercises.
After entering through the main gate of Sinpungnu, you will see Bongsudang towards the center. This building was used as the jeongjeon (main hall) when the king was in town. The name ‘Bongsudang’ stems from Queen Hyegyeonggung’s 60th birthday party and the wish for ‘ten thousand years of boundless longevity’. The interior of the building has been decorated to recreate the way it would have looked for the celebrations. Jangnakdang, connected to Bongsudang, was used as a place of rest for Queen Hyegyeonggung. The name ‘Jangnakdang’ comes from ‘Changle Palace’ ('Jangan' in Romanized Korean), the home of the Empress Dowager of the Chinese Han Dynasty. Jangnakdang was built as a place for King Jeongjo to live with his mother after stepping down from the throne.
Boknaedang was the main quarters in which King Jeongjo stayed. It was usually used by the family of the Hwaseong Yusu (the equivalent of today’s mayor), but was also used by the king when he came to the city. Even though King Jeongjo came to the Hwaseong Haenggung often, in order to reduce unnecessary expenses, he did not make a separate residence for himself. Building a separate residence would have cost a significant amount of money, as would the maintenance fees when the palace was empty. Through this dual use of Boknaedang, we can get a glimpse of Jeongjo’s rational and practical personality. Used as a filming site for the world-famous Korean TV drama ‘Dae Jang Geum’, Boknaedang is featured in a number of different scenes.
Yuyeotaek, located to the left of Bongsudang, is where the Hwaseong Yusu (city mayor) resided as he conducted official business. In order to accommodate a large number of people, it is equipped with a wide plaza and service corridors referred to as 'haenggak'. In front of the 'nugak' (a Korean-style building) is a Korean sundial called an ‘Anbuilgu’. The sundial was made in 1434 by King Sejong (1397-1450), the 4th king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of 'hangeul' (the Korean alphabet). The sundial was installed in Jongno, the main street of Seoul (Hanyang) at the time, as the first public clock.
Of the many buildings of the Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, the only one that has remained in its original form is Naknamheon. The building was used by King Jeongjo to celebrate Queen Hyegyeonggung’s 60th birthday party, military banquets, and the ceremony for presenting certificates to those who passed the ‘Gwageo’ (civil service exam). In the interior of Naknamheon is Deukjungjeon where Jeongjo used to practice archery.
Located next to Naknamheon is Hwaryeongjeon. Hwaryeongjeon, which includes the annex buildings of Unhangak, Jeonsacheong, and Punghwadang, is where the portrait of King Jeongjo is hung and ancestral rites were held each year. When the latter took place, people would gather in front of Hwaryeongjeon and a woldae (terrace) was prepared on which court musicians performed. In front of the woldae were 3 sets of stairs. The middle stairs were reserved for use by the spirits. The cornerstones on both sides are adorned with cloud shapes representing the heavens.
If you go to the back of Unhangak (the main building of Hwaryeongjeon where the portrait of the king is), you will see a large ‘agungi’ (a type of fireplace or hole for lighting a fire to warm rooms or cast iron kettles). Also in this area is a ‘gudeul’ (a type of Korean floor heating system), built to maintain heat only in the small section where the portrait of the king is enshrined.
At the entrance of Haenggung Palace is a 'gwangjang' (plaza or square). Illustrations are drawn here and there on the floor of the plaza. One picture, called 'banchado', shows the procession of King Jeongjo bringing his mother to Suwon. There is also a picture of Queen Hyegyeonggung (mother of King Jeongjo) on her 60th birthday party.
This particular illustration, with its elaborate portrayal of every person in attendance, gives the viewer a real sense of how magnificent the feast was. At the same time, the picture serves as an important point of reference for research on royal court banquets. In addition to this illustration are pictures showing a party celebrating the completion of the construction of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, grain being given to the poor at Jeongjo’s mother’s 60th birthday party, and military training exercises.
After entering through the main gate of Sinpungnu, you will see Bongsudang towards the center. This building was used as the jeongjeon (main hall) when the king was in town. The name ‘Bongsudang’ stems from Queen Hyegyeonggung’s 60th birthday party and the wish for ‘ten thousand years of boundless longevity’. The interior of the building has been decorated to recreate the way it would have looked for the celebrations. Jangnakdang, connected to Bongsudang, was used as a place of rest for Queen Hyegyeonggung. The name ‘Jangnakdang’ comes from ‘Changle Palace’ ('Jangan' in Romanized Korean), the home of the Empress Dowager of the Chinese Han Dynasty. Jangnakdang was built as a place for King Jeongjo to live with his mother after stepping down from the throne.
Boknaedang was the main quarters in which King Jeongjo stayed. It was usually used by the family of the Hwaseong Yusu (the equivalent of today’s mayor), but was also used by the king when he came to the city. Even though King Jeongjo came to the Hwaseong Haenggung often, in order to reduce unnecessary expenses, he did not make a separate residence for himself. Building a separate residence would have cost a significant amount of money, as would the maintenance fees when the palace was empty. Through this dual use of Boknaedang, we can get a glimpse of Jeongjo’s rational and practical personality. Used as a filming site for the world-famous Korean TV drama ‘Dae Jang Geum’, Boknaedang is featured in a number of different scenes.
Yuyeotaek, located to the left of Bongsudang, is where the Hwaseong Yusu (city mayor) resided as he conducted official business. In order to accommodate a large number of people, it is equipped with a wide plaza and service corridors referred to as 'haenggak'. In front of the 'nugak' (a Korean-style building) is a Korean sundial called an ‘Anbuilgu’. The sundial was made in 1434 by King Sejong (1397-1450), the 4th king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of 'hangeul' (the Korean alphabet). The sundial was installed in Jongno, the main street of Seoul (Hanyang) at the time, as the first public clock.
Of the many buildings of the Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, the only one that has remained in its original form is Naknamheon. The building was used by King Jeongjo to celebrate Queen Hyegyeonggung’s 60th birthday party, military banquets, and the ceremony for presenting certificates to those who passed the ‘Gwageo’ (civil service exam). In the interior of Naknamheon is Deukjungjeon where Jeongjo used to practice archery.
Located next to Naknamheon is Hwaryeongjeon. Hwaryeongjeon, which includes the annex buildings of Unhangak, Jeonsacheong, and Punghwadang, is where the portrait of King Jeongjo is hung and ancestral rites were held each year. When the latter took place, people would gather in front of Hwaryeongjeon and a woldae (terrace) was prepared on which court musicians performed. In front of the woldae were 3 sets of stairs. The middle stairs were reserved for use by the spirits. The cornerstones on both sides are adorned with cloud shapes representing the heavens.
If you go to the back of Unhangak (the main building of Hwaryeongjeon where the portrait of the king is), you will see a large ‘agungi’ (a type of fireplace or hole for lighting a fire to warm rooms or cast iron kettles). Also in this area is a ‘gudeul’ (a type of Korean floor heating system), built to maintain heat only in the small section where the portrait of the king is enshrined.
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